billet crankshaft
#12
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 237
From what I understand the Howards crank is all machined by Callies. But I already decided that I'm going with a Callies. You know how it goes,we always want to go faster. My point being is in a couple of years this thing may have a procharger on it. I don't want to have to spend money on another crank later. It cost a little more up front but well worth it in the long run. Thanks
#13
I just wanted to give you guys a follow up of my experience with Ohio cranks. I remember a big thread somewhere about 'em.
My engine builder suggested using one and I had doubts because of what I had read on RJ. He was honest and told me the limits it had and rated at max 1500hp.
My motor (632) ended up a little over 1200hp (no nos, yet) and I 've been running it since December 08. I've run the snot out of this motor. Every race it turns 7,400+rpms no problems. Early January I blew a rear ring and pinion apart and hit the rev limiter at 8,400. Also recenty (the pass just before the picture you see as my avatar) had a shifter maulfunction and go into netural. Again pegged the rev limited at 8,400 and still going strong. I know it's no comparrison to a Callies, but just wanted the guys on a lower budget to know that the Ohio cranks have been doing well (so far) for us.
My engine builder suggested using one and I had doubts because of what I had read on RJ. He was honest and told me the limits it had and rated at max 1500hp.
My motor (632) ended up a little over 1200hp (no nos, yet) and I 've been running it since December 08. I've run the snot out of this motor. Every race it turns 7,400+rpms no problems. Early January I blew a rear ring and pinion apart and hit the rev limiter at 8,400. Also recenty (the pass just before the picture you see as my avatar) had a shifter maulfunction and go into netural. Again pegged the rev limited at 8,400 and still going strong. I know it's no comparrison to a Callies, but just wanted the guys on a lower budget to know that the Ohio cranks have been doing well (so far) for us.
#14
I buy a lot of stuff from Ohio Crank.
The key to any HP purchase is to tell them what you plan to do with their stuff. Tell them what you think you are going to buy and then listen. That is where Scott Ray and the guys at OC can assist. They run what they make.
Dave
The key to any HP purchase is to tell them what you plan to do with their stuff. Tell them what you think you are going to buy and then listen. That is where Scott Ray and the guys at OC can assist. They run what they make.
Dave
#15
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,137
Originally Posted by Pwmax
Tod74, curious, did your Ohio kit that was un-assembled I take it? Were any of the parts taken out of the packages? Like the rods taken out of the protective plastic, the bearings and rings opened? The pistons un-wrapped and taken out of the package? Just curious. I have seen that more than once, when guys bring in Pre=balanced rotating assemblies, because they can get a way better "deal". Not being sarcastic, just wanting to mention this, so all the guys looking at price, of what appears to be the exact same parts, what you are getting. I call it a generic balance job, and not a precision race balance job. The difference is just that. They take a "generic" bob weight, for similiar parts, that they weighed one piston, and one rod for, and use those figures, for everyone they do. This simplifies the balance job. Simply make up the bob weight for the generic specs, slam them on the crank, spin it up, drill a couple holes, and call it "Precision race balanced". What you really get, is a balance job, that is sorta close, but not really, 15 or so grams, is good enough, I mean, come on, what do you expect for that price? lol
Frank
Frank